Wednesday, July 23, 2008

walk to Rabanal, Completely Unique Experience

We walked from Astorga to Rabanal today. It was a pleasant walk, about 13 miles. It was hot but not brutally hot. It was a gentle uphill. The landscape began changing from dusty desert to mountain forest.

Okay, today I did something that I don´t think anyone has ever done. I peed on my headphones. I was peeing behind a bush and my two little headphones were kind of hanging in front of me. Anselmo (kindly and helpfully) said "Don´t pee on your headphones". I assured him that I had missed them, but when I put them back in my ears they were wet. It did not affect the music, which was early Neil Young.

Rabanal is a small town oriented towards pilgrims. We are staying in a neat hotel, at the very top of the hotel, under the eaves. Our window opens onto the roof!

We went to hear a service where some monks sang a Singing Vespers. The church here was built in 800 AD. The service was lovely. As usual I tried to feel spiritual but failed. One of the images I saw in the Leon cathedral was a painting of nightmarish violence and I could not get that out of my head. I am beginning to wonder why I keep having dark thoughts when I´m in these churches. Maybe the spirit of a bitter woman from long ago is accompanying me on my pilgrimage. Maybe she will find redemption.

Okay, didn´t mean to get serious. Yikes.

Later. Tomorrow we climb to the Cruz de Ferro, an iron cross on a mountaintop.

No comments: